Caplan



May 20, 1952 B. cAPLAN Re. 23,491

EXTENSIBLE HEM GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 Original Filed Nov. 23, 1948 INVENTOR.

3 mm GOIQZGM May 20, 1952 CAPLAN Re. 23,491

EXTENSIBLE HEM GARMENT CQNSTRUCTION Original Filed Nov. 25, 1948 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN V EN TOR.

May 20, 1952' B. CAPLAN EXTENSIBLE HEM GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Original Filed Nov. 23, 1948 Reissued May 20, 1952 EXTENSIBLE HEM GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Barney Caplan, Camden, N. J.

Original No. 2,508,223, dated May 16, 1950, Serial No. 61,640, November 23, 1948. Application for reissue May 7, .1951, Serial No. 224,854

Matter enclosed in heavy brackets appears in the original patent 'but forms no part of this reissue specification; ;matter printed in italics indicates the additions made by reissue.

. Claims.

The present invention relates generally to overcoats, Jackets or the like and it relates more particularly to coats iorgrowing children which can be quickly and easily lengthened from year toyear.

,An object of the present invention is to provide a new and improved construction for an overcoat or topcoat or jacket or the like. Another object of the present invention is to provide an overcoat or similar garment for growing children having anew and improved bottom hem construction permitting the coat to be lengthened quickly and easily, when required, without the need for restitching.

Other objects and advantages of the present invention are apparent in the following detailed description, appended claims and accompanying drawings.

It has been suggested in the past to provide overcoats or the like for growing children wherein 'the'bottom hem is so constructed that the coat can be lengthened to permit it to be worn for two or more seasons. 7

These conventional constructions have not, however, proven entirely satisfactory since, in some cases, they have required a stitching operation on the lengthened garment and, in other cases, have involved relatively difficult and timeagainst accidental breaking and-unraveling.

Generally speaking, the present invention contemplates an extensible hem construction for an overcoat or the like having a lin ng (and, optionally, also an inter-lining) wherein both the coat and the lining are turned upward and inward (i. e., toward each other) to provide hems, and a continuous annular line of removable stitching or tacking is then applied so as to fasten the upper edge of the upturned hem of the coat to the outer ply of the coat material (by blin or invisible stitches) and to fasten the upper edge of the upt rned hem of the lin ng to the outer ply of the lining material (or, to the inner-lining where one is present).

For the purpose of illustrating the invention,

.2 there are shown in the accompanying drawings forms thereof which are at present preferred, although it is to b understood that the various instrumentalities of which the invention consists can be variously arranged and organized and that the invention is not limited to the 'precise arrangements and organizations of the instrumentalities as herein shown and described.

Referring to the accompanying drawings in which like reference characters indicate .like parts throughout:

Figure 1 represents a front .elevational view of [as] one embodiment of thepresent invention as it appears before lengthening.

Figure 2 represents an elevatiorial viewof "the embodiment of Figure 1 shown in unbuttoned position and with the lower edge turned lip at one side so as better to reveal the construction of the bottom hem.

Figure 3 represents an elevational view showing the rear of the embodiment of Figure 1 the lengthened position of the bottom hem being shown in dash-dot lines.

Figure 4. represents a fragmentary perspective view, on an enlarged scale, showing the rear of the coat asit appears when-the ,coat ply is turned up and with the removable stitchingpartly pulled loose, freeing a portion of the lininghem.

Figure 5 represents a cross-sectional view generally along the line 5-5 of FigureZ.

Figure 6 representsa cross-sectional viewigenerally like that-of Figure 5 but showing the coat as it would appear during an intermediate stage in the lengthening operation; that is, with the removable stitching pulled out suiiiciently to free the lining hem but not yet-to free the coat hem.

Figure 7 represents a cross-sectional view generally like those of Figures 5 and 6 but-showin the appearance of the coat after the removable stitching has been completely pulledout seas to free both the lining hem and the coat-hem.

Figure 3 rep-resents a cross-sectional View generally along the line 88 oflFigure 2.

In Figures 'l-8, I have shown an overcoat intended for a growing girl which embodies the present invention and which includes an outer ply 20 of relatively heavy-weight fabric (which is referred tohereinafter as the coat-ply) ,having left and right facings 2 I, between the inner free edges of which extends a lining 22 of light-weight fabric such as silk orrayonor nylon, as indicated particularly in Figure 2.

An inter-lining 23 (which is of relatively coarse mesh material providing additional warmth) may be provided on the inner side of I expose the end-stitching 33.

3 the lining 22 (so that it is intermediate the linin and the coat-ply, as indicated particularly in Figured). The lower edge of the inter-lining 23 is fastened to the lowermost free edge of the lining 22 by the bottom stitching 24, as indicated particularly in Figure 4.

In forming the novel extensible hem construc tion of the present invention, I turn up the lowermost edge 25 of the coat-ply 20 (which is hemmed and finished off with a tape 26 in generally conventional manner) so as to provide a relatively large hem 21 which may be of the order of 22 /z inch width or transverse dimension.

The facings 2| are similarly turned up at their bottom edges as at 28 and the lining 22 (with its associated inter-lining 23) is also turned up to provide a hem 29 of approximately the same transverse dimension. However, the fold-line 30 forming the hem 21 is somewhat lower than fold-line 3| forming the hem 29 so that, as indicated particularly in Figures 1 and 5, the coatply will extend downward somewhat beyond the lining so as to conceal it from view.

A single continuous line of readily removable stitching or tacking 32 is then applied so as to fasten the up-turned free edges of the hems 21 and 28 to the juxtaposed fabric plies. That is, the stitching which may begin adjacent one edge of the coat-ply 20 (see for example the righthand edge in Figure 2) is first run along the free edge 25 of the hem 21 until it reaches the other edge of the coat-ply 2D and is then continued along the hem 28 of the facing 2| and along the upper edge of the hem 29 of the lining 22 and finally along the upper edge of the other facing hem 28 back to its starting point. The stitching is then contained diagonally along the hem 21 a short distance as at 33.

The stitching 32 is of a type well known in the art and is made up of a succession of loops which come apart when one end of the thread is broken and pulled so that the entire line of stitching can be unraveled or ripped out in a single more or less continuous operation.

Where the stitching 32 is aflixed to the coatply 20 it is of a blind or invisible stitch type wherein the thread enters the inner side of the fabric but is not visible on the outer side.

That portion of the stitching 32 which holds the hem 29 is also blind or invisible when the coat is opened as in Figure 2; the stitches passing through the hem 29 and both plies of the interlining 23 but not passing through the body of the lining 22, as indicated particularly in Figure 5.

It is apparent that the stitching 32 is thus fully concealed from view when the coat is worn, prior to lengthening, and is protected against accidental catching and breaking of the threads such as would otherwise inadvertently result in unraveling of the stitching.

As is customary in coats of this general type, particularly girls coats, the lower edge of the lining is thus left free and is not stitched to the coat-ply.

When it is desired to lengthen the coat, the coat-ply and the lining are spread apart or opened in the manner indicated in Figure 2 to This stitching is then broken and the free end of the thread is pulled so as progressively to unravel said stitching.

Thus, as indicated particularly in Figure 4, the unraveling of the stitching proceeds first along the hem 28 of the facing 2| and then along the 4 hem 29 of the lining 22 thereby permitting the hems to drop down to the lengthened position. Figure 6 is a more or less schematic representation of this intermediate condition wherein the lining hem 29 has been opened while the coatply hem 21 is still secured.

Further unraveling of the stitching would progressively open the hem 28 of the other facing 2| and the hem 21 of the coat-ply 2D and, ultimately, the entire stitching is pulled out whereupon the hems are completely held down in the manner indicated in Figure 7 and also indicated in dashdot lines in Figure 3.

Thereafter, it is necessary merely to press the lower edge of the garment to remove the impressions of the fold-lines 3|] and 3| whereupon the garment is ready for use in lengthened condition.

It is possible to provide identical extensible hem constructions (not shown) at the free edges of the sleeves so that they, too, can be lengthened. However, where such extensible hem constructions are provided for the sleeves, it may be desirable to stitch the free edge of the outer ply (corresponding to the edge 25) to the adjoining free edge of the lining to prevent the lining from being pulled up into the sleeve when the coat is removed.

While the novel coat construction of the present invention has been shown in the drawings as including an inter-lining 23, this inter-lining is not essential and can be omitted if desired. In such case, the stitching 32 will fasten the uppermost free edge of the upturned hem 29 directly to the lining 22 (instead of to the intervening inter-lining 23) and, in all other respects, the structure will be identical.

While particularly well adapted for use in overcoats for growing children, the present invention is not limited to this particular type of garment and, in addition, can be used in jackets, top-coats and other types of similar, lined garments.

Similarly, while particularly well adapted for lengthening the lowermost free edges of coats or the like, the novel extensible hem construction of the present invention can also be used in coat sleeves and the like.

From the foregoing description, it is obvious that the novel extensible hem construction of the present invention permits the lengthening of hems and the like with a minimum of time and effort required. Indeed, the stitching 32 can be broken and completely removed in a matter of a few seconds and the lengthened garment is then ready for use in the few minutes required to press out the fold-lines 3|] and 3|.

No stitching or other expert operations such as would require the services of a tailor are necessary.

The novel extensible hem construction of the present invention in no way impairs the appearance of the garment either before or after lengthening. Thus, the seam 32 is fully concealed from view prior to lengthening so that the garment presents the appearance of an ordinary garment having a standard hem-line.

After lengthening, the appearance of the garment is also no different from what would ordinarily be the case since the thread-holes are not visible at the extended portion of the coat-ply which is of relatively coarse-textured heavy fabrlc.

Since the stitching 32 is fully enclosed intermediate the upturned hems, it is protected against inadvertent breaking and unraveling such .it iis virtually impossible for the stitching '32 to :be accidentally broken since it is well concealed 'and protected and, at the same time, it is readily accessible when it'is desired to lengthenthe hem.

The present invention may be embodied in other specific formswithout departing from the spirit or essential attributes thereof, and it is therefore ilesired that '-thepresent embodiments beconsidered *in all respects as illustrative and not =restrictive, reference 'bei-ng had 'to the appended cla'ims rather than-to theforegoing descrip'tion to indicate the'scope of the invention.

Having {thus described my invention, 1 claim a s-new and-desire to protect by Letters Patent:

'1. -A garment construction comprising an outer-ply having a relatively wide bottom hem turned inwardly so thatit is not visible from the outside of the garment, a lining having a bottom 'hem of generally the same width as the first-mentioned hem, said lining hem also being 'turned inwardly so that it is n'ot visible from the inside of the garment, and a single continuous -generally annular line of readily removable stitching --e xtending around the inturned hemlinespsaid-stitching fastening the upturned edge of the first-mentioned hem to-the outer-ply and f asteningthe upturned edge of the second-men- *tloned hem to the lining while leaving the remainder- -ot said hems unfastened-whereby said hems are retained in upwardly-directed position but "are free-to unfold and fall when the stitching is removed ina single operation, thereby to lengthen both-the outer-ply and the lining.

72.15. .garment construction comprising an outer-ply .having a relatively wide bottom hem turned inwardly so ,that it is not visible from the outside of the garment, a lining having a bottom hem of generally "the same Width as the first-mentioned hem, said lining hem also being turned inwardly'so that it isnot visible from the inside of the garment, and a single continuous genera1l y annular line of readily removable :stitching-iastening the-uppermost edges of said hems "to the underlying material while leaving the bottoms of said outer-ply and said lining unconnected, said stitching being removable in a single "operation thereby to free said hem edges and to lengthen both the outer-ply and the lin- 3. A garment construction comprising an outer-ply having a relatively wide bottom hem turned inwardly so that it is not visible from the outside of the garment, a lining, an inter-lining disposed underneath said lining and fastened thereto at the lower edge thereof, said lining and inter-lining being turned inwardly to provide a bottom hem of generally the same width as the first-mentioned hem, said second-mentioned hem not being visible from the inside of the garment, and a single continuousgenerally annular line of readily removable stitching extending around the inturned hem-lines, said stitching fastening the upturned edge of the first-mentioned hem to the outer-ply and fastening the upturned edge of the second-mentioned hem to the inter-lining while leaving the remainder of said hems unfastened whereby said hems are retained in up- .wardly-nirected position but rare i-ree unfold and ,fall when-the stitchingjisaremovedin a single operation, thereby i :lengthen botlr'the outer..- p'ly andithe lining.

4. A garment "construction comprising -an outer-ply having :a relatively wide bottom'zhem turned inwardly so that it is vnot visible ,trom the outside :of the garment, a lining, ;an inter.- lin'ing disposed underneath said lining and fastened'thereto at the lower edge :thereof, said lining-and inter-lining being .turned inwardly to provide a -bottom hem of generally the same width as the first-mentioned hem, :said second-mentioned hem not being -vislble from the inside :0: -the-=garment, and a single cqntinuous generally annular line of readily-removable stitching fastening the uppermost edges of said hems tothe underlying material while leaving the bottoms *of said outer-ply and said :lininguncpnnected, said stitching being removable in arsing1e gopera- --ti-on thereby to free :said :hem edges .and to lengthen boththe outer-plyand'the lining.

5. An :extens'iblecoat for a growing childscomprising an .outer coat-ply of relatively heavy fabric or the like havinga relatively wide'bottom hemturned inwardly so that it is not visible from theoutside of the coat, aliningof relatively thin fabric having a bottom hem of generally the same width as the first-mentioned hem, said-lin- 'ing hem also being turne'dinwardly so :that'itris not visible from the inside of thegarmentanua single continuous .generally annular 'line of readily removable stitching extendingv around. the inturned heme "and fastening the uppermost edges of said "hem-s, said stitching fastening the upper edge 'of the first-mentioned hem to :the fabric of the coat-ply with blind stitche f'invisible from the outside of the coat, said stitchingf-astening the upper .zedge :of the second-mentioned 'hemzto the lining whereby-said hems-are retained in upwardly-directed position'bu-t with no connection between the bottoms of the-coat-ply and the lining,'said.hems being freeito unfoldand'fall when the stitching'is removed in a single operation, thereby to lengthen both thecoat-plysand the lining.

6. An extensible coat for a growing child comprising :anouter coat-ply. of relatively heavy fabric or the like havinga relatively wid bottom hem turned inwardly so that it is not visible-from the outside of the coat, a'liningof relativelythin fabric or the like having an inter-lining disposed on the inner side thereof and fastened thereto :at its bottom, said lining and inter-lining being turned inwardlyto provide a bottomhem :of generally the same width as .the first-mentioned hem, and a single continuous generally annular line of readily removable stitching extending around the inturned hems, said stitching fastening the upper edge of the second-mentioned hem to the inter-lining with stitches which are invisible from the inside of the coat while leaving the remainder of said second-mentioned hem unconnected, said hem being retained in upwardlydirected position by said stitching but being free to unfold and fall when the stitching is removed in a single operation, thereby to lengthen both the outer-ply and the lining and its associated inter-lining.

7. A garment construction comprisin an outer-ply having a relatively wide bottom ea:- tensible hem turned inwardly so that it is not visible from the outside of the garment, a lining having a bottom extensible hem of generally the same width as the first-mentioned hem, said lining hem also being turned inwardly so that it is not visible from the inside of the garment, and a generally annular line of readily removable stitching extending around the inturned hemlines, said stitching fastening the upturned edge of the first-mentioned hem to the outer-ply independently of the lining and fastening the upturned edge of the second-mentioned hem to the lining independently of the outer ply while leaving the remainder of said hems unfastened with said first-mentioned hem and said second-mentioned hem being disconnected whereby said hems are retained in upwardly-directed position but are free to unfold and fall when the stitching is removed thereby to lengthen both the outerply and the lining; the outer fabric having a finished permanent bottom hem independent of the lining.

8. A garment construction comprising an outer-ply having a relatively wide bottom extensible hem turned inwardly so that it is not visible from the outside of the garment, a lining having a bottom extensible hem of generally the same width as the first-mentioned hem, said lining hem also being turned inwardly so that it is not visible from the inside of the garment, and a generally annular line of readily removable stitching fastening the uppermost edges of said hems to the corresponding underlying material while leaving the uppermost edges of said hems disconnected from each other and leaving the bottoms of said outer-ply and said lining unconnected, said stitching being removable thereby to free said hem edges and to lengthen both the outer-ply and the lining; the outer fabric having a finished permanent bottom hem independent of the lining.

9. A garment construction comprising an outer-ply having a finished permanent bottom hem and a relatively wide bottom extensible hem turned inwardly so that it is not visible from the outside of the garment, a lining having a bottom extensible hem of generally the same width as the first-mentioned hem, said lining hem also being turned inwardly so that it is not visible from the inside of thegarment, and a generally annular line of readily removable stitching extending along the inturned hem-lines, said stitching fastening the upturned edge of the first-mentioned hem to the outer-ply and fastening the upturned edge of the second-mentioned hem to the lining, the up-turned edge of the first-mentioned hem and the up-turned edge of the second-mentioned hem being disconnected.

10. A garment construction comprising an outer-ply formed of body-cloth having a narrow portion of its lowermost margin turned inwardly, a tape having one edge thereof sewn to the exposed face of said narrow inturned marginal portion and having the other edge thereof stitched to the body of the cloth adjacent the edge of the narrow inturned marginal portion, said tape being wholly invisible from the other side of said outer-ply, said narrow inturned marginal portion and said tape forming a more or less permanent hem which becomes the bottom of the garment when the outer-ply is in its extended or lengthened condition, a relatively wide marginal portion of said outer-ply along the bottom of the garment, including the aforesaid inturned and taped marginal portion, being turned inwardly to form a relatively wide extensible bottom hem invisible from the outside of the garment when in its upturned or un-extended condition, a lining having a relatively wide bottom marginal portion thereof, of approximately the same width as the inturned extensible hem of the outer-ply, also turned inwardly to form an upturned extensible hem facing the upturned extensible hem of the outer-ply, said extensible lining-hem being invisible from the inside of the garment when in its upturned condition, and readily removable stitching extending along the upper edges of the inturned extensible hem portions of outer-ply and lining, said readily removable stitching fastening the upper edge of the inturned extensible hem of the outer-ply to the outer-ply independently of the lining and fastening the upper edge of the inturned extensible hem of the lining to the lining independently of the outer-ply, the upper edge of the up-turned extensible hem of the outer-ply and the upper edge of the upturned extensible hem of the lining being disconnected.

BARNEY CAPLAN.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent or the original patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,426,500 Goldstein Aug. 26, 1947 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 13,572 Australia Oct. 23, 1928 488,881 Great Britain July 15, 1938 557,408 Great Britain Nov. 18, 1943 589,459 Great Britain June 20, 1947 607,759 Great Britain Sept. 3, 1948 

